Homage to Catalonia

• April 10, 2008
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Jaume Subiros, the protege of Catalan's culinary revolutionary Josep Mercader, has taken over the Hotel Emporda and its legacy of modernized and lightened (but still traditional) Spanish cuisine. Spanish specialties like canelons in cream sauce and Mercader's signature dishes now share menu space with Subiros' newer creations, which are designed to showcase certain seasonal ingredients at the peak of freshness. Foodies and Spanish-cuisine enthusiasts will appreciate Andrews' adept descriptions of the deep-fried anchovy spines, sauteed chanterelles, and other gourmet treats.